Doing Things Wrong

Kubicki Factor Guitar (1/8)

I was so pleased with the bass that I thought I'd try a guitar. This is a little more complicated, as there are six tuners rather than four, but it worked out well. The battery is for an Artec tone control that I wanted to try. More later ...


Nov 15, 2018

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Quickly roughing-out a guitar neck. The truss rod is a 1/2" square steel tube. This is a bit heavy, but extremely strong, and results in a neck that will stay arrow-straight forever, and never need adjusting. The steel is roughed-up and set in the slot with wood glue. It is necessary to clamp the piece at this point because otherwise the moisture in the glue will swell the wood and make it crooked.

The air space inside the tube resonates for extra tone. Sure it does.

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Sawing fret slots ... oak fretboard
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... and gluing

How's that for a fast job?


Nov 16, 2018

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Still proving concept: I sawed off the excess fretboard, then belt-sanded it almost in to the maple. Then I finished the job by block sanding with half-sheets of 80. I was smart this time, and drew all my layout lines about a mm outside of where I wanted, so when I did my rough shaping, I could come in to the line and still have 1 mm for finishing. Because if I see a line, I just can't stay away from it, I'm like a dog or something.

Interesting note: the tannins in the oak turned the glue black.

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This thing feels really solid, no flex at all. Three dollars of oak glued to three dollars of maple, with three dollars of steel inside. And a lot of labor.

Everything is now perfectly smooth and straight. The neck is a little wide at the nut, so that the nut will fit inside the binding without trimming it. This will give me a little extra width to fit the string retainers, all six of them. I also lightly re-sanded the radius, and flattened the headstock, otherwise, the 6mm binding will not quite cover it. I'm tired, I don't want to do the binding slot tonight, but that will be done the same way I did the Factor bass. The method from a few posts ago won't work here, as the binding will go all the way around the end. The two ends will join at the heel. Acetone will melt them together seamlessly.

I think oak against maple looks lousy, but a strip of binding separating them looks sharp. It also helps with the table-leg look that you get with oak. In coming years, you're going to see the big names turn to oak more and more as their old standbys get outlawed by the gubment.

A stray thought: those hanging files that your office is filling the dumpster with, now that we are paperless ( yeah right ) are perfect for storing and organizing sandpaper. At least until sandpaper becomes digital.

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Here is a terrific little saw handle that takes Sawzall blades. It comes with an array of blades, including the dangerously sharp flush-cut and rather dodgy drywall blades, and a few others that I've long since used up, but it will fit any Sawzall blade. But what really makes this thing great is when I started making my own blades - all the small ones along the right. I cut these from much larger Sawzall blades that I bought, using an angle grinder, and shaping them on the bench grinder. Sawzall blades all cut on the pull stroke, but as you can see, two of these blades cut on the push stroke, because I cut them reversed from the parent blade. The tangs are easy to make. Push blades are good for cutting through finished or laminated surfaces. These little blades give me a hand-held jigsaw, very useful for many loothery tasks. This saw is a Craftsman, so you better hustle on down to your local Sears and get one before it closes. Mine is on the death list. StewMac should pick up this idea.

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