Doing Things Wrong

Radiata Glue-up

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I picked all the scrap pieces out of the trash for this cool picture

This is a body made from 2x2 Radiata pine from Home Depot. This material is actually 1-1/2" square and gives you a choice of tight grain on two opposing sides and loose feathery grain on the other two sides. This is the tight grain.

This is a fantastically economical and locally-sourced way to build a body. ( The wood actually comes from New Zealand, but you can buy it locally. )

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Here I am gluing up sub-assemblies. I have made the intended front sides flush, so all the unevenness collects on the backs. At this point, flip the parts and try different fits to find the arrangement that gives the flattest result.

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Then glue the sub-assemblies together into a slab, again, keeping the front flush.

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Belt-sanding everything smooth

The front needs very little sanding because all the unevenness is on the back. You also need to sand out any overall curvature. You'll find one side is bowed out in the middle, with a corresponding cup on the other side.

After checking with a straightedge, I have scribbled marks on the spots that need to come down. Sand the marks off, and repeat until flat, on both sides. If you did a careful job gluing everything earlier, there will be no appreciable loss of thickness in this step.

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And that's it - this blank is finished. This is around $20 worth of wood and glue. A fancy tropical-wood luthiery blank like this would probably cost hundreds.

Some Radiata body builds:


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Here is a terrific little saw handle that takes Sawzall blades. It comes with an array of blades, including the dangerously sharp flush-cut and rather dodgy drywall blades, and a few others that I've long since used up, but it will fit any Sawzall blade. But what really makes this thing great is when I started making my own blades - all the small ones along the right. I cut these from much larger Sawzall blades that I bought, using an angle grinder, and shaping them on the bench grinder. Sawzall blades all cut on the pull stroke, but as you can see, two of these blades cut on the push stroke, because I cut them reversed from the parent blade. The tangs are easy to make. Push blades are good for cutting through finished or laminated surfaces. These little blades give me a hand-held jigsaw, very useful for many loothery tasks. This saw is a Craftsman, so you better hustle on down to your local Sears and get one before it closes. Mine is on the death list. StewMac should pick up this idea.