Doing Things Wrong

Radiatabacker Part II

The glue is all dry, time to flatten out the blank. I clamped a piece of scrap wood at the edge of the bench for a stop, and laid the blank up to it on some padding. This will stop it from shooting off when the belt sander hits it. I sorted through all the vacuum cleaner parts I have collected over the years, and finally made an adapter to hook the sander to the little shopvac under the bench. Then I put on a new 80-grit belt, and went at it.

Happy to report that the dust collector works great, it got 99% of the dust. Normally this is a very messy job, but not any more, just a little spillage to vacuum off the bench, and almost nothing went flying. The blank is now as flat as I can get it with the belt sander, time to switch to a block sander and go at it by hand. Time: about an hour.

So if you think you need a surface planer to make a guitar blank, think again. Very few surface planers are big enough to do a piece this size, and the ones that are are very expensive and take up a lot of storage space. The belt sander lives in a box.

There's the front all sanded down, with a new outline traced on. The tool is a drywall sander, but it works fine for this, and is much easier on your hands than wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood, especially 80-grit. Despite the fact that I'm using the same grit as the belt sander, the result is coming out much smoother. I can't feel, see, or measure anything on the front now, it is as flat as I can make it. This is a bigger mess than the belt sander made! My arm is tired, have to do the back later.

I am doing all the rough sanding before I cut the outline. This way I can't accidentally over-sand the edges. I'll do the finish sanding after I shape the outline, that way if I mark-up the faces while doing the edges, I'll automatically fix them later.

I've cut and sanded the outside edges, but left inside the horns to support the router. I just finished a regulation Fender neck rout. The router was already set up for just this job - the joy of having two routers. Alas, I still haven't gotten them to mate and have a litter of dremels.

From the chaos, a familiar shape emerges. I still have to work out the details around the neck mount. Mostly bandsaw work, except inside the upper horn where it just wouldn't reach, I cut a little by hand with a coping saw.

The thickness is about 1-3/8" and very consistent all around. That's down from the original 1-1/2", or about 1/16" off each side, which is what I originally estimated the cup to be. Still thicker than a real Ric.

And my favorite - the jigsaw puzzle shot. How's that for no-waste luthiery? That's it for today, I'm tired and I don't feel like doing the neck mount and screwing it up. I need to work out the width and alignment, and those tight corners.

About two inches of sawdust in my little shopvac. It was barely sucking any more, filter completely choked. I'll just take it outside and beat it clean against a fence post. Almost all of that is from this project. Dust collection is very important, but it doesn't need to be expensive. In fact, any vacuum with a hose will do in a pinch.

I'm thinking of putting a Fender headstock on this - make it a "Rickenbird", or would that be a "Fenderbacker"?


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In addition to my alternative marker dots, I'm also looking for 'non-luthier' alternatives to side markers, and here is one. These are bits of 3/32" brass rod, set in a piece of scrap maple as a test. Foot-long lengths of 3/32" and 1/16" rod are available from hobby shops for around a buck; they are used by model builders. I pre-drilled the holes, tapped the rod in like a nail, and cut it off slightly proud. Working the brass is just like dressing fret ends, in fact, you could do it at the same time. I also found some aluminum rods on eBay. At the size of a dot, aluminum should come out looking just like pearl. This is like Danelectro used to do back in the '60s. Steel would be much harder to work, and also prone to corrosion, so I wouldn't use ordinary nails, but small brass ones would work. Always pre-drill hardwoods. I pushed in a dimple with a pointed scribe, then deepened it with a spring punch before drilling. Chuck the drill bit so just a 1/4" protrudes. That will keep it from flexing, which can be a problem at these sizes.

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