Doing Things Wrong

Rickenbacker 325 Bass 3 (1/3)

This was my third go at a 325 bass. The first one was unbalanced with this long neck, and the second suffered a router mishap. Eventually, I salvaged both of those, but first I took all the good parts and did this. Fender-type alder body with 3-tone sunburst, single binding. Surface-mounted pickups, active electronics. Finished entirely in polyurethane.

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The geometry of the neck over the tall pickups is giving me some problems. I'm just going to let it settle for a while, let the neck take its set. Here are the specs:

  • Neck: 32" bolt-on maple/Bubinga, with a mahogany strip and walnut wings, brass nut
  • Body: alder, 3-tone burst, black back, single bound, back cutaway
  • Electronics: surface-mount humbuckers, 3-way active controls with passive backup

I suppose my goal was to get all the details right while getting the whole thing wrong. This is a Ric if Fender built them. To finish it with a Ric logo would be courting Ric's hyperactive legal department, so I used a Fender decal that I had lying around. I think that really completes the theme.

Right now, it actually doesn't play too bad, considering I am probably going to have to re-cut the neck heel to get everything lined up the way I want. It sounds like a real Rickenbacker ( I have one ) minus the single-coil noise.

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The scale is 32". A Ric is 33.25". I only have tooling to make Fender scales: 34, 32, 30.5, on down. 32" is probably my favorite - doesn't feel short, but a lot less stretching and reaching than 34". In other words, it fits a human hand better than Leo's 34" mistake. I don't find the difference between 33.25 and 34 to be very noticeable. On the other hand, 34" keeps guitarists at bay.

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Been doing some setup and fret work. The action is good, but I will get it lower in time. I find initial setup is an iterative process that can take several weeks. It is something that is well worth learning.

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The bargain Chinese ** 3-band eq I had installed sucked, so I ordered a good SBK-3 from Guitar Fuel, and here I am putting it in. This is a huge improvement. The Chinese electronics murdered all the dynamics, the instrument sounded much better with the passive switch pulled. The new electronics are a near-perfect match for the passive output when everything is set flat, but also allows three bands of boost/cut. The newest versions of the SBK series come with a solder-free pickup connection on the balance pot. However, I replaced the balance pot with a switch, and the volume pot with a switching pot. In hindsight, it would have been better to remove and short out the stock volume pot and replace it with a conventional one upstream. That would leave me with a passive volume control. But done is done.

** Please don't call me racist or anything. If something comes from China, then it is Chinese. A lot of inexpensive guitar parts ( and a lot of other stuff ) come from China. Some of them are good, and some are not so good, and some are awful. Guitar Fuel's electronics bear more than a passing resemblance to Artec products, but with enhancements. Artec is in South Korea. Korean parts are first-rate.

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This is a spoke nut version, for use at the neck heel.

Here is a variation intended to adjust at the headstock rather than the heel, although it would work fine there too. I substituted a 1-1/2" 10-32 SS cap-head bolt for my usual spoke nut and threaded shaft. It is captured the same way, in a drilled-out coupling nut with a ground-down hex nut. The rod itself is 48" 3/16 rod steel, bent back on itself. Both coupling nuts are grooved on the attaching surface to hold the round rod. This greatly simplifies alignment and assembly, and the cap-head bolt eliminates one solder joint. All parts from my favorite luthiery supply shop, Home Depot.

Printed from luthierylabs.com