Doing Things Wrong

Audiovox Uke Bass (1/2)

Well, it's that time of year again, time to renew the web hosting. And for those of you that don't know, that has become a lot more expensive than it used to be. Fifty dollars a year is now several hundred. Not to mention the price of domain names has gone up ten-fold.

And I just found out that the nice folks at PayPal disabled all my Support buttons, and I never got a notice (although that may be my fault.) In any case, it is all working again now, so if you would like to make a small donation to help defray these costs, it would be greatly appreciated.

This bass is a 21" scale, with a piezo saddle mounted in an adjustable bridge. The soundhole is just for looks. The strings are metal-wound Kalas. The fretboard is cut out of the ugliest piece of wood I ever received. For such a small neck, I managed to cut around most of the ugly, and the result isn't half bad.

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These two bodies are maple plywood over a hollow pine core, double-bound. They came out very lightweight, too light to balance even a guitar neck. The short uke bass was always planned. I shuffled parts and bodies between some other projects, and that left the second body free. I thought about it for a while and decided it would make a good mandolin.

Both of these short necks have fixed steel truss rods, although they probably don't need them. Both are finished in polyurethane, with masonite pickguards.

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The Fret Slotting Jig is basically a very precise mitre box. What makes it a fret slotting tool is the Fret Guide, which attaches underneath the workpiece with double-sided tape, and engages a pin on the Fret Slotting Jig directly below the saw blade. The holes in the guide are spaced to Fender's formula, so depending on which hole you start with for the nut slot, you can cut anything from a 36" bass to a 20" ukelele, and all the standard scales in between. The guide fits snugly between the inner rails of the jig to keep the workpiece centered and straight.

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