I got all the electrics reconnected on the Kubickish bass. The switch at the lower-right has 13 connections coming and going; luckily I drew a diagram of the whole thing before I took it apart. The switch controls the mode of the pickups - coils in series or parallel. There is also active bass and treble controls, with a passive backup mode.
More: Finally put this back together ...
This is the Kubicki bass body from last year (?) It is now wearing a nice chocolate burst and a thick coat of OIL-BASED polyurethane. It has been hanging up for over two months, and I figure the poly is 99% as hard as it will ever get.
More: Still Loothering ...
Although sold as a hardwood, poplar is actually softer than some pines. It often has an unattractive green color, although the grain patterning is usually nice. The grain itself is tight, requiring no filling. Poplar is suitable for stained and solid-color finishes that hide the natural color. Poplar requires a hard protective finish like polyurethane.
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White pine is the low-grade cheap stuff you find at most home centers. Although strong enough for most things, it is very soft and prone to surface damage. White pine is also prone to dark marks from pitch. These can turn up inside pieces that otherwise looked clean.
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I've been thinking about what I want to do luthiery-wise from here on out, and I think that apart from the cool Radiata glue-ups, I am going to do mainly plywood-core Danelectro-style bodies with Tolex side bindings. I want to avoid bothersome complications like three-dimensional paint jobs. If it's not enjoyable, then why bother?
More: Plans ...
This is the initial layout. The material is 24" x 18" x 0.22" acrylic from Home Depot, about $25. I cut it in thirds lengthwise on the bandsaw, enough for three generously wide neck templates. The bandsaw cut this stuff well, the big blade makes a good heat sink, and as long as you keep moving along in a straight line at the right speed, no melting.
More: Fretboard Inlay Jig ...
Here is a terrific little saw handle that takes Sawzall blades. It comes with an array of blades, including the dangerously sharp flush-cut and rather dodgy drywall blades, and a few others that I've long since used up, but it will fit any Sawzall blade. But what really makes this thing great is when I started making my own blades - all the small ones along the right. I cut these from much larger Sawzall blades that I bought, using an angle grinder, and shaping them on the bench grinder. Sawzall blades all cut on the pull stroke, but as you can see, two of these blades cut on the push stroke, because I cut them reversed from the parent blade. The tangs are easy to make. Push blades are good for cutting through finished or laminated surfaces. These little blades give me a hand-held jigsaw, very useful for many loothery tasks. This saw is a Craftsman, so you better hustle on down to your local Sears and get one before it closes. Mine is on the death list. StewMac should pick up this idea.
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The easiest way to make a pickguard is to go to eBay and buy one, ready-made. However, if that doesn't suit your project, you can also find a wide assortment of blank materials to make your own design from. Work out your design full-sized on paper first.
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These were my first two tries at a 325 bass. Both are plywood over pine hollow-bodies. The one on the left - #1 - used an experimental neck mounting that I didn't like. The one on the right - #2 - suffered a router mishap. I took all the good parts and built the solid-body, and both of these bodies spent years on the scrap heap.
More: Rickenbacker 325 Bass 2 ...
I was so pleased with the bass that I thought I'd try a guitar. This is a little more complicated, as there are six tuners rather than four, but it worked out well. The battery is for an Artec tone control that I wanted to try. More later ...
More: Kubicki Factor Guitar ...