Doing Things Wrong

A Better Way to do Binding?

I was looking at that crazy Ric body, and wondering if my binding rig will get into those deep corners. Getting around that long narrow horn without wobbling might also be a problem. So I started thinking about alternatives.

StewMac sells a binding bit and bearings, but, as usual, it is very expensive - $56 for the router bit alone, almost $200 for the full kit. And their bit has such a large diameter, it probably wouldn't go into a tight space anyway!

I'm sure StewMac's kit will do anything, but I don't need that

I don't need to be able to cut every size slot in the world. I mic'ed all the bindings I use, and they are all 1.5mm thick. So that's all I need to be able to do. If you don't have a micrometer, you need one, Harbor Freight is good enough.

I fished out a 1/2" laminate trimming bit, the kind with the bearing on the end rather than the shaft. It has a 1/2" bearing to match the cutter for a flush cut. I found a 3/8" and a 10mm bearing, so I unscrewed the 1/2" bearing from the bit and swapped in the 10mm. I also rounded-off the corners on the nut for clearance.

A test cut in maple scrap came out a bit shallow, so I swapped in the 3/8" (9.5mm) bit, and that was pretty much flush. Then I mic'ed the tired old router bit, and found it to be 12.4mm rather than the 12.7mm it theoretically should be. I don't even remember where that bit came from. The mounting shaft for the bearing is 4.7mm, or about 3/16".

And it looks like this - a pretty well-used old bit

With a new bit that is a true 12.7mm diameter and a 9.5mm bearing, the resulting slot should be 1.6mm deep. You're supposed to cut a little bit deep to allow for expansion from the glue, but I have never had a problem cutting for flush, so this should work fine. And this will go into the tightest corner, and needs no fussy setting up, or perpendicular alignment while you use it. Time for a trip over to eBay, where I found this:

1/2" Laminate Flush Trim Router Bit - 1/4" Shank - Yonico 14146q, $9.95 with free shipping from USA. Note how this bit uses a nice small allen bolt on the end rather than a fat nut. SKIL 91201 looks equivalent. And this:

3/16x3/8x1/8 Metal Shielded Bearing R166-ZZ, $6.72 for four of them with free shipping from USA. These bearings have metal shields, not plastic or rubber, which would probably melt at router speeds.

The order is in - under $20. If this works, it will be the best and cheapest binding routing kit in the world! I put the old router bit back to normal, I'll wait for the new parts. I already know it will work. I don't understand why you can't go to any luthiery supplies place and just buy this. Aren't you glad you found this website?


This body was purchased on eBay from a parted-out guitar. Might have been a Squier, I don't remember. It was in pretty good shape, and I gave it a good polishing. The neck is hand-made, one of my first. The back is hand-picked Home Depot maple, the fretboard is pre-slotted rosewood from StewMac, I hadn't yet worked out how to make my own. If you cut the first two frets off a 34" fretboard, you end up with a 30" scale. That's about the limit with a pre-slotted fretboard though, as you start to run out of frets at the other end. The dots are 1/4" pearl from StewMac, expensive. The frets are probably pre-cut Fender.

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