Doing Things Wrong

Bursts Done

Well, it's that time of year again, time to renew the web hosting. And for those of you that don't know, that has become a lot more expensive than it used to be. Fifty dollars a year is now several hundred. Not to mention the price of domain names has gone up ten-fold.

And I just found out that the nice folks at PayPal disabled all my Support buttons, and I never got a notice (although that may be my fault.) In any case, it is all working again now, so if you would like to make a small donation to help defray these costs, it would be greatly appreciated.

The two Kubicki bodies finally have all the bursted edges done. This is a dark brown, not a black, that looks very nice with the yellow of the pine, as you can see here on the Strato-vox:


It is important to get a good thick layer on, especially at corners and edges that are prone to bumps and wear. Thin finishes are bullshit. I can say that now that I am no longer being monitored on that giant online waste of space known as Talk*ass. The only reasons for a thin finish are cheapness and the inability to apply a real finish that actually protects the piece.

The whole thin-finish mythos comes from the days of nitrocellulose lacquer, which never dries hard unless applied absolutely thin. Modern finishes like polyurethane are much better, and there is no reason to apply a 'thin finish' anymore.

While on the subject, I must reiterate that this is an oil-based polyurethane. Water-based polyurethane is more like clear house paint. It is not the same chemistry at all, it is nowhere near as tough. As long as oil-based poly is available, use it.

These bodies will hang up for a day or two while I get the Mosrite body ready for clear-coating. Then I'll do all three at once. I got a brand-new quart of Minwax gloss.

My trusty airbrush has earned its keep again and deserves a good long soak in mineral spirits. The wide-mouthed salsa jar is perfect for such use, although the lid leaks if you tip it over.


After successful and interesting experiments rebuilding 1448 and 1457 "Amp-in-Case" amplifiers, I thought I'd try something bigger. So I kept an eye on the eBays, and eventually came up with this - an early production Silvertone 1472, made by Danelectro and sold through the Sears catalog. It was fairly cheap because it wasn't working. However, the cabinet is solid, the aluminum faceplate and labeling are in good shape, all the knobs are there, and everything else can be replaced or rebuilt. The Tolex is in very good shape, and the corners of the cabinet are all pretty much intact. Much like buying an old car - a blown engine is easier to fix than a rusted-out body.

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