Doing Things Wrong

Superfreaky Part II

After doing the binding, I found a bulge in the middle of the fretboard. So I sanded it down with a radius block until everything is perfectly flat. I touched-up the inlays with black CA, and re-stained it to be bubing-ish again ( actually an old can of "Colonial Maple". ) Finally, I drilled out tuner holes 13/16" in the locations I determined previously, and everything fits.

Satisfied with the front, I flipped it over and set it up to shape the back. The heel is clamped in a vise, and the head is supported to make things relatively level. I also taped-up the headstock wings to avoid accidentally marring them with tools.

After sketching in Rick-ish contours for each end, I began the attack with a long flat Surform file. I also have a curved one, but the flat one did 99% of the work. When I had the basic shape roughed-in, I switched to a big round-backed file, which is quite coarse and ideal for woodworking. Finally, I finished the shaping with a padded sanding block and 80-grit.

I used a yardstick and eyeball to judge the taper on the back, and hands to make sure it all feels right. Long straight tools naturally give a smooth even result, no bumps or dips to work out. Everything done by hand - good exercise, no excitement. The shape is pretty close to final, then on to finish sanding.

This neck is entirely Radiata. This is my second Radiata neck; the first one is about a year old now on the Cowbell, with no issues. This is a good wood for necks - lightweight, good grain, strong and straight, and easy to work.


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I decided that two of my Audiovoxen should have bound necks to go with the bound bodies, because binding is really super classy. So here I'm routing the edges for that. I've taped two strips of scrap binding to the top of the fretboard to act as guides, since it is already radiused and otherwise the router would rock on the curve. The neck is stuck onto a piece of 2x4 for clearance, and the whole arrangement is inside a big box to catch most of the mess. You want to go in one long smooth run rather than nibble at it; you're not taking such a big bite that you can't do it in one pass. Those same pieces of binding are going to get glued on later. Notice that the neck still has a square back. This is actually a pretty easy job and would be even easier if it was done prior to radiusing the fretboard. Set the height of the cut to just remove all the rosewood, so the binding butts against the maple. The depth of the cut is not fussy, as there is still a lot of contouring to do.