Doing Things Wrong

Superfreaky Part II

After doing the binding, I found a bulge in the middle of the fretboard. So I sanded it down with a radius block until everything is perfectly flat. I touched-up the inlays with black CA, and re-stained it to be bubing-ish again ( actually an old can of "Colonial Maple". ) Finally, I drilled out tuner holes 13/16" in the locations I determined previously, and everything fits.

Satisfied with the front, I flipped it over and set it up to shape the back. The heel is clamped in a vise, and the head is supported to make things relatively level. I also taped-up the headstock wings to avoid accidentally marring them with tools.

After sketching in Rick-ish contours for each end, I began the attack with a long flat Surform file. I also have a curved one, but the flat one did 99% of the work. When I had the basic shape roughed-in, I switched to a big round-backed file, which is quite coarse and ideal for woodworking. Finally, I finished the shaping with a padded sanding block and 80-grit.

I used a yardstick and eyeball to judge the taper on the back, and hands to make sure it all feels right. Long straight tools naturally give a smooth even result, no bumps or dips to work out. Everything done by hand - good exercise, no excitement. The shape is pretty close to final, then on to finish sanding.

This neck is entirely Radiata. This is my second Radiata neck; the first one is about a year old now on the Cowbell, with no issues. This is a good wood for necks - lightweight, good grain, strong and straight, and easy to work.


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In addition to my alternative marker dots, I'm also looking for 'non-luthier' alternatives to side markers, and here is one. These are bits of 3/32" brass rod, set in a piece of scrap maple as a test. Foot-long lengths of 3/32" and 1/16" rod are available from hobby shops for around a buck; they are used by model builders. I pre-drilled the holes, tapped the rod in like a nail, and cut it off slightly proud. Working the brass is just like dressing fret ends, in fact, you could do it at the same time. I also found some aluminum rods on eBay. At the size of a dot, aluminum should come out looking just like pearl. This is like Danelectro used to do back in the '60s. Steel would be much harder to work, and also prone to corrosion, so I wouldn't use ordinary nails, but small brass ones would work. Always pre-drill hardwoods. I pushed in a dimple with a pointed scribe, then deepened it with a spring punch before drilling. Chuck the drill bit so just a 1/4" protrudes. That will keep it from flexing, which can be a problem at these sizes.