Doing Things Wrong

Headless Bridge Re-dux

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The new paint is dry enough to handle, so I re-assembled the headless bridge. It is sitting on top of the piece of scrap wood that I screwed it to while I was painting it. That gives you a good idea of what the hammered paint looks like if you lay it on thick enough. The bridge is smoother because I sanded between coats. I also rubbed some of the shine off it. By the time I get back around to this, the paint will be rock-hard. I had to do some careful scraping to get the saddles to fit back into the tracks.

The part originally had a thin black powder-coat that was surprisingly fragile. You can still see it on all the hardware. Not anodized or black chrome, just paint. I'd expect better for sixty bucks. However, the hardware itself is not bad - real steel and brass where you need it. The zinc alloy ( pot metal ) body is adequate.

This chunky thing weighs 1.3 pounds. Compare that to a Fender bridge which weighs practically nothing. Take the headstock and tuners off the end of the neck and add this counterweight to the butt, and you should have an instrument that balances very well.


This body was purchased on eBay from a parted-out guitar. Might have been a Squier, I don't remember. It was in pretty good shape, and I gave it a good polishing. The neck is hand-made, one of my first. The back is hand-picked Home Depot maple, the fretboard is pre-slotted rosewood from StewMac, I hadn't yet worked out how to make my own. If you cut the first two frets off a 34" fretboard, you end up with a 30" scale. That's about the limit with a pre-slotted fretboard though, as you start to run out of frets at the other end. The dots are 1/4" pearl from StewMac, expensive. The frets are probably pre-cut Fender.

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