This is the headless bridge I got a while ago that proved to be cosmetically damaged. You can even see the damage in this picture. I filled in the dings with black CA, but I had no expectation of ever hiding it, so this bridge got thrown in the junk box after I got a refund, they didn't want it back.
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The new paint is dry enough to handle, so I re-assembled the headless bridge. It is sitting on top of the piece of scrap wood that I screwed it to while I was painting it. That gives you a good idea of what the hammered paint looks like if you lay it on thick enough. The bridge is smoother because I sanded between coats. I also rubbed some of the shine off it. By the time I get back around to this, the paint will be rock-hard. I had to do some careful scraping to get the saddles to fit back into the tracks.
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"RetroBrite" is a name for a process that restores old yellowed plastics to new. Many plastics yellow or darken over time. RetroBriting can reverse this aging, but with a number of caveats that, in my opinion, make it pretty useless. While the process actually does work - it reverses the discoloration - the effect is temporary. After a few months, the plastic will return to its yellowed state. When this happens, you can repeat the treatment, but at some point the chemicals involved are going to start to degrade the plastic.
My first experiment was whitening some yellowed tuner knobs, and it did work. With nothing more than sunshine and hydrogen peroxide, the knobs lightened considerably. That was several years ago, and today the knobs are as yellow as ever.
What causes this yellowing? It is variously attributed to sunlight, oxygen, bromine content, and other causes. While all of these things can contribute to it, none of them are necessary. Some plastics simply turn yellow with age, and nothing will stop it. In my experience, the real culprit is simply bad plastic, and the only real solution is replacement.
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The Ribbed Mussel is a cousin to the edible Blue Mussel. The main difference is that Blue Mussels are found out in the clean ocean, while Ribbed Mussels are found in smelly marshy places. And the ribs. So you wouldn't want to eat a Ribbed Mussel. Actually, I don't care for Blue Mussels either, but back in my diving days I used to collect them because back at the dock you could trade them with the fishing boats for tuna steaks and all kinds of good stuff. Like trading gravel for gold. Blue Mussels form a thick layer over almost anything solid, and the ones I got were much bigger and better than anything I ever saw in the store, where they are also very expensive.
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The belt attachment is what makes it far superior to an ordinary spindle sander. Belts have a far greater working area than the small cylinders most spindle sanders have. They last longer and are cheaper to replace, and are available in a wider variety of grits. The #36 belt is ideal for removing material to make a rough shape, then clean up with a #80. The big end of the belt drive is a 2-1/2" diameter, which turns out to be by far the most useful part of the machine, and exactly matches many of the curves on a Fender neck. Of course, there are smaller spindles all the way down to 1/2" for tight spots. The flat on the belt will cut reasonably straight for small parts that fit entirely in it, but anything that overhangs the ends is going to be gouged by the rollers unless you are very careful - light touch and always moving the workpiece. It's good exercise.
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