Doing Things Wrong

Hammered Paint

Hammered Black

Hammered spray paint is formulated to produce a mottled two-tone finish. The surface is smooth but not perfectly even and can be anything from matte to high gloss metallic. Hammered paints are available in a range of colors at any hardware or hobby store.

Hammered Copper, very thick

Hammered paints have a number of advantages. They cover small imperfections, require no polishing, and are hard and tough. I can think of nothing else that would stand up to buckle rash better. Application couldn't be easier. Just spray it. When you think it is thick enough, stop.

A hammered paint finish works especially well with Danelectro-style side binding. You actually don't want to paint the sides, just lay the part flat and shoot. You could also just do the back of the guitar hammered, and do something fancy on the front, like a veneer or a sunburst. You could even shoot a hammered burst.

The easiest finish I've ever done

I wouldn't use a hammered finish on the back of a neck, though. That is one place you want to be as smooth as silk. The front of the headstock would be fine.

Hammered Silver

Hammered paint is also available as an oil-based brush-on. This might work even better than the spray can. It might also be spray-able with a compressor. All things to try someday.

Krylon hammered pain is less blotchy than Rustoleum, which gives two useful options.


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A subject so simple you hardly even consider it, yet really very mysterious. Just what is the roughness of sandpaper, and the relation to the number on the package?

Here's a plot of some numbers I found online: sandpaper "grit" versus actual micron size. Interesting to see what size scratches you are taking out ( or putting in. ) The curve starts at 320, which is the coarsest grit that might be considered part of the finishing process. For final finishing like orange-peel removal, I start with 1500 and work up from there, I find that even 1000 leaves scratches that are difficult to remove.

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