Doing Things Wrong

Drilling

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my cheap little drill press that does 90% of my drilling

For drilling precisely spaced holes, like guitar tuners, make ( or buy ) a template. I make mine out of scrap maple. If you mess it up, throw it away, NBD. Eventually, you'll get it right, and then forevermore.

There are a few tricks too. Sometimes I will lower a drill bit into the dimple and let it shake the part until it centers itself, then push down for the hole. To drill chrome, I chuck the bit all the way up, so just a 1/4" protrudes. This way it can't bend and skate over the surface. Any time you are drilling metal, you must start small and enlarge in steps. That is a good idea in hardwood as well if you want accuracy. Unless you have a template, in which case, just go for it. If you're not sure how something will drill, ruin a few pieces of scrap to get a feel for it.

There are all different types of drill bits as well. Coated drill bits are pushed hard nowadays. These are ok for wood and soft metals but are unlikely to finish even one hole in steel. Titanium-coated sets are very cheap. Black oxide is better. For steel, only cobalt-steel bits will do. If you want just one set of drill bits, spring for cobalt, and you will be able to drill anything. I keep one set of black oxides for wood, and a set of cobalt for metal. Unlike coated bits, cobalts can be re-sharpened, and last a lifetime - a good investment.

If you don't have a good set of Forstner bits, get one. Don't buy drill bits and other cutting tools at Harbor Freight, they are made of inferior metal and will dull up quickly if they even start out sharp.

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A punch like this is invaluable for making a precise dimple to start a hole.

Common tap and drill sizes:

Thread drill (for screw) drill (for tap) drill (for rod)
4-40 3/32" (0.0938") #43 (0.0890") 7/64" (0.1094")
4-48 3/32" (0.0938") #42 (0.0935") 7/64" (0.1094")
6-32 7/64" (0.1094") #35 (0.1100") 9/64" (0.1406")
8-32 9/64" (0.1406") #29 (0.1360") 5/32" (0.1563")
10-24 5/32" (0.1563") #25 (0.1560") 3/16" (0.1875")
10-32 5/32" (0.1563") #21 (0.1590") 3/16" (0.1875")
12-24 11/64 (0.1719") #16 (0.1770") 7/32" (0.2188")
1/4-20 13/64" (0.2031") #7 (0.2010") 1/4" (0.2500")
M3 2.5mm 3mm
M4 3.4mm 4mm
M5 4.2mm 5mm
M6 5.2mm 6mm

Note: I have quoted four decimal places above. For working in wood and soft metals, two decimal places would be enough. For steel, three decimal places. Tap and die kits typically include all the odd-sized drill bits, the only difficulty is keeping them together with the appropriate tap!

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Around the time that Evets was putting out their first round of Danelectro reissues in the late '90s, several disaffected Gibson employees started their own company, and put out two models - 'Mona' and 'Lisa'. The Mona is a copy of the Danelectro 1457 from the 1960s. It is a mix of old and new. The body is classic masonite over a hollow core, but lacks the Tolex edge binding of the original. While it has the speckles of the original, the finish is modern polyurethane. The pickups are true lipsticks, wired in series, but the pickguard is bevel-edged plastic, and the bridge is basically a Fender. The headstock is the right shape, but bent down to lessen the awkward string angles.

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