Doing Things Wrong

Going Nutty

Well, it's that time of year again, time to renew the web hosting. And for those of you that don't know, that has become a lot more expensive than it used to be. Fifty dollars a year is now several hundred. Not to mention the price of domain names has gone up ten-fold.

And I just found out that the nice folks at PayPal disabled all my Support buttons, and I never got a notice (although that may be my fault.) In any case, it is all working again now, so if you would like to make a small donation to help defray these costs, it would be greatly appreciated.

This is the latest Ric project. I tried to use a Gibson-style nut, but it just can't cope with the Rickenbacker geometry. If you make the string slots deep enough to keep the strings from jumping out sideways, you end up over-cutting them, even with the 1.5mm shim I already installed because I was expecting that.

So I knocked the nut off with a sharp tap from the fretting hammer to fix the problem. This is why you want to install a nut with some sort of glue that you can break without damaging the guitar. E6000 works well, or even Elmer's glue, and both are easy to clean away if you have to reset the nut. The worst choice would be epoxy or CA.

I thought about it a bit, and decided to glue a shim to the bottom of the nut. I made the shim out of a bit of black binding, roughed-up the surfaces, and glued it on with black CA, which I also used as filler around the edges. Some sanding and polishing, and the joint is almost invisible. To polish the tiny plastic part, I just rubbed it on the carpet on the benchtop.

Then I drilled some pits in all the mating surfaces, as you can see in the picture. That will give some mechanical lock to the joint. Finally, I glued it back in with E6000 again, and fought off my urge to wipe away the squeeze-out, as it is better to let it dry and roll it off with your finger. I'll finish this in the morning, now I will have to re-cut all the nut slots.

The real question is, how will this affect the tone? Discuss amongst yourselves.


The subject of capacitors in guitars is rife with fraud and nonsense. The fact is, the capacitor is not IN the signal path, it is very much OUT of it, and only has any effect when you select it, which is probably pretty seldom. The capacitor is part of a low-pass ( or rarely high-pass ) filter, basically a frequency-dependent leak to ground. It is not making 'tone', it is taking it away. The type of capacitor that you use for this really doesn't matter at all, as long as you don't use a polarized one the wrong way. Orange Drop, oil-in-paper, film, ceramic -- makes no difference. Anyone who claims it does either has a very vivid imagination or is trying to sell you something.

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