Doing Things Wrong

Passive Distortion

Well, it's that time of year again, time to renew the web hosting. And for those of you that don't know, that has become a lot more expensive than it used to be. Fifty dollars a year is now several hundred. Not to mention the price of domain names has gone up ten-fold.

And I just found out that the nice folks at PayPal disabled all my Support buttons, and I never got a notice (although that may be my fault.) In any case, it is all working again now, so if you would like to make a small donation to help defray these costs, it would be greatly appreciated.

image

This is a selectable onboard passive distortion circuit using clipping diodes wired to ground. All solid-state 'artificial' distortion circuits, no matter how expensive, have something like this at their core. Instead of requiring power, this circuit uses the output of the pickups themselves and therefore should work better with higher output pickups. It uses a 2-pole 4-position rotary switch to select various combinations of diodes for different degrees of distortion, or none. You could also select one of the diode combinations and wire it to a push-pull switch for a single level of distortion, or even wire it to a separate 'volume' control to control the resistance to ground and therefore the amount of distortion. The diodes cost pennies. I have yet to actually try this one, but when I get back to building six-strings, I definitely want to.

Each 'pole' of a switch is actually a separate switch. A 3-pole switch is actually 3 separate switches on one shaft that move together. The diagram shows a 3-pole 4-position rotary switch instead of a 2-pole 4-position, which is instructive: you can always use a bigger switch and just 'waste' the extra capacity. Why would you want to do this? Switches can be used for many different applications, and there is often little difference in price between different models. Stocking the 3-pole switch gives me more flexibility in what I can do later, even if, as in this case, I waste part of it.

This circuit only works well with extremely high-output or "hot" pickups. With most pickups, it does little or nothing.


Comments on Passive Distortion

Questions or Inquiries?

Just want to say Hello? Sign the .

Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


Click image to replace if unable to read.

Enter the digits from the image above, except for the last one:

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.


Bending steel is not that difficult. You can make a pretty tight bend up to 90 degrees in up to 1/8″ material simply by clamping it in a vise and hammering it over. To go beyond 90 degrees, say 180 degrees for a truss rod, first bend it to 90 degrees, then heat the elbow and finish the bend. Heat the bend point until it glows orange. For smaller (guitar-sized) materials, a common hand-held propane torch should be adequate. After bending, quench the part quick in water, like a blacksmith in a western movie. You can hold a small part under the faucet. That will restore the strength of the material.

Printed from luthierylabs.com