Doing Things Wrong

Fret Leveling

Fret leveling begins with proper installation. First, make sure the fretboard is straight and even. A long radius sanding block is useful. Short ones may only make the problem worse.

However, you install the frets, make sure they are fully seated. I use a fret press, and then follow it up with a hammer. When all the frets are in nice and tight, start checking with a fret rocker.

You can get one of these for under $10 on eBay, or $30 at StewMac. Aluminum works fine and is softer than fret wire, so it can't ding them.

I start at the high end and work my way down to the headstock. "Rock" the frets at each string location. Try to tap down any high spots with your fretting hammer. Only when that doesn't work, resort to filing.

When filing frets, I use a 6-inch fine file, and work it gently over the top of the high fret first. When it is almost there, switch directions and go gently up and down the neck. You can switch from a file to a sharpening stone for very fine adjustments.

Arkansas Soapstone

Once the frets are all level, the easiest way to round over the flat tops is to wrap a piece of 400 grit sandpaper around your finger and run it up and down the neck. Follow with 1000 for a polish, then clean the wood, and you're done. Or you can get an expensive fret-crowning file, and do it the hard way.


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This is a spoke nut version, for use at the neck heel.

Here is a variation intended to adjust at the headstock rather than the heel, although it would work fine there too. I substituted a 1-1/2" 10-32 SS cap-head bolt for my usual spoke nut and threaded shaft. It is captured the same way, in a drilled-out coupling nut with a ground-down hex nut. The rod itself is 48" 3/16 rod steel, bent back on itself. Both coupling nuts are grooved on the attaching surface to hold the round rod. This greatly simplifies alignment and assembly, and the cap-head bolt eliminates one solder joint. All parts from my favorite luthiery supply shop, Home Depot.

Printed from luthierylabs.com