Doing Things Wrong

Active Tone Controls

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is PB140220.jpg

Active tone controls offer one thing that no passive control can do - boost. You can get them in one, two, or three bands. The latter can come with mid-frequency controls, which gives you nearly as much tone-shaping as your amplifier. Who doesn't want more of everything?

A great source for active tone controls is guitarfuel.com. This guy sells really great active controls, in all kinds of configurations. You can buy direct or find his ebay store. I’ve used a lot of these circuits and even done some prototype testing for him.

The boards themselves resemble Artecs, but are made to custom specs. They are hi-impedance, suitable for piezos as well. Very compact – should fit anywhere, I squeezed one into a Tele. Simple installation, everything is pre-wired as much as possible.

Artec electronics are excellent, quiet, and very reasonably priced. I’ve also used some Belcat and no-name circuits from eBay. Very hit and miss, especially the unbranded ones. A number of them died during installation, or maybe even shipping. You get what you pay for.

I’ve built a number of Franken-basses with SBK pre-amps, and they are great – very quiet, with a wide range on the tone controls. The price may not have much snob appeal, but they are great circuits, and actually easier to install than all but the simplest build-your-own passive circuit. I’ve fooled around with a number of other low-priced active controls, and the SBKs are MUCH better than any of them. Highly recommended.

Oddly, I put one in a guitar and found it was wasted and took it back out and put it in a bass. The guitar just didn’t seem to benefit from active circuitry like a bass does.

https://ebay.com/str/guitarfuelperformanceproducts


Comments on Active Tone Controls

Questions or Inquiries?

Just want to say Hello? Sign the .

Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


Click image to replace if unable to read.

Enter the digits from the image above, except for the last one:

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.


image

The belt attachment is what makes it far superior to an ordinary spindle sander. Belts have a far greater working area than the small cylinders most spindle sanders have. They last longer and are cheaper to replace, and are available in a wider variety of grits. The #36 belt is ideal for removing material to make a rough shape, then clean up with a #80. The big end of the belt drive is a 2-1/2" diameter, which turns out to be by far the most useful part of the machine, and exactly matches many of the curves on a Fender neck. Of course, there are smaller spindles all the way down to 1/2" for tight spots. The flat on the belt will cut reasonably straight for small parts that fit entirely in it, but anything that overhangs the ends is going to be gouged by the rollers unless you are very careful - light touch and always moving the workpiece. It's good exercise.