Doing Things Wrong

Band Saw

Well, it's that time of year again, time to renew the web hosting. And for those of you that don't know, that has become a lot more expensive than it used to be. Fifty dollars a year is now several hundred. Not to mention the price of domain names has gone up ten-fold.

And I just found out that the nice folks at PayPal disabled all my Support buttons, and I never got a notice (although that may be my fault.) In any case, it is all working again now, so if you would like to make a small donation to help defray these costs, it would be greatly appreciated.

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This is my little bandsaw. A saw like this costs well under $100 and is well worth it. While a scroll saw can cut thick body material, a band saw does it much better. A bandsaw also rips through hard maple necks much faster than a scroll saw.

In the picture above, the bandsaw is set up with two fences for a long rip cut. This is not what a bandsaw is really for though, bandsaws excel at cutting curves.

Setting up a bandsaw is a tricky thing, as is using it. When you first get it, you will probably spend some time cursing at it, and wondering if you should have gotten a better one. I assure you, eventually you will get the thing figured out, and a $400 model would have the same problems. It is a matter of experience for the user, not the machine.


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These three pieces will go together as shown to make a very strong angled headstock. This construction, known as a 'scarf joint', sandwiches the headstock between the neck and the fretboard. Unless the glue fails ( which has been known to happen ) this joint will never break. It also has the advantage of being very economical, as the neck piece only needs to be as wide as the neck, not the headstock. You can use 2-1/2" (3") lumber for the neck and 5-1/2" (6") for the headstock.

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