Doing Things Wrong

Today's Lootherization

I'm making the clear pickguard for the guitar. It is a near copy of the bass, so this is easy. I traced the old one onto the masking tape and roughed it out on the scroll saw with a very coarse blade and a light touch. You don't want to melt the blade into the plastic - that is a do-over!

Then I did the rest of the rough shaping on both benchtop sanders. Tight corners and stuff were done with files. Just to see what happens, I broke out my wheel-polishing rig, and now both pickguards really shine.

After thinking about it, I could probably have done the whole piece on just my handheld belt sander, using the flat for the straights and the roller for the curves. I built a whole bass with nothing but the handheld belt sander.

Notice that the one tool I did not use is the one every noob gets told to use - the router. Especially with brittle clear plastic, a high-speed router is just going to shoot shards of plastic all over the workshop, and then you can start over. I make all my pickguards by hand like this. Even a 45-degree bevel is remarkably easy to do with a file.

I noticed that the logo layer on the bass had become a little cloudy, or maybe it always was but it really shows with the new body finish. So I decided not to use it. I could print a decal instead, and apply it to the now-slick body under the clear plastic. I think I'll just leave it this way, it's not needed - the burst adds some visual appeal that was lacking before.

The pickguard is installed with Danelectro-style truss-head screws - no countersinking, doesn't get any easier. This entire guitar ( and the bass ) is entirely Home Depot wood - Radiata body, maple neck, oak fretboard. The pickguard is an old windowpane, and the finish is oil-based poly, so pretty much the entire build is from the hardware store.

All it needs now is strings.


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I decided that two of my Audiovoxen should have bound necks to go with the bound bodies, because binding is really super classy. So here I'm routing the edges for that. I've taped two strips of scrap binding to the top of the fretboard to act as guides, since it is already radiused and otherwise the router would rock on the curve. The neck is stuck onto a piece of 2x4 for clearance, and the whole arrangement is inside a big box to catch most of the mess. You want to go in one long smooth run rather than nibble at it; you're not taking such a big bite that you can't do it in one pass. Those same pieces of binding are going to get glued on later. Notice that the neck still has a square back. This is actually a pretty easy job and would be even easier if it was done prior to radiusing the fretboard. Set the height of the cut to just remove all the rosewood, so the binding butts against the maple. The depth of the cut is not fussy, as there is still a lot of contouring to do.